When Toilet Paper Runs Out...

Substitution for Every-Day Items:

You store 48 super-size packages of toilet paper, but you've been confined to your home due to [fill-in-the-blank] for a long time and you're down to your last package. What do you do?

Warning: This is not a post to read if you have a queasy stomach or while you're eating!

1. You could make your own toilet paper by making your own paper (will post a how-to within a month or so)
2. You could use other things like:
   -Kitchen towel (ick)
   -Old newspaper (crumple to get soft)
   -Phone books (ditto)
   -Mail-order catalog (ditto)
   -Bank notes or other laying-around paper, leaves (ditto)
3. Other Methods:
   -a bidet + towel to dry off
   -an upturned shower head + a towel to dry off
   -a wet sponge (that's how the Romans did it)
   -your hand - which is how people in the third world do it - that's why you see them eating with their opposite hand!

As for water use, a drought is always a concern and must be dealt with prudently. Discuss with your family members what to do should you run out of toilet paper. Start working on an alternate plan now.

How to Make Fire-Starters

Here are a few ways you can make "fire-starters" - useful tools when you are depending on a fire to get you warm and feed you.

Method #1: You need:
Newspaper
Twine
Wax

Directions:
Cut newspaper into 4 inch strips and roll them up tight. Tie the rolls with twine leaving about 2 inches of twine for dipping into paraffin wax or melted reserved candle wax. Dip the whole thing into the wax. Store. Use the twine as a wick to light. These are light and easy to carry.

Method #2: You need:
Dryer Lint
Egg Carton
Wax

Directions: Gather lint from your dryer. Take your paper (not styrofoam) egg carton. Cover the bottom of each egg carton section with lint. Melt wax (safely!). Pour the wax into each egg carton section that has lint in it. Once the wax has harden, break apart, and store. When ready to use, light the carton section and place in the tinder you've arranged where you want your fire. The carton will burn through to the lint and the wax will keep it going. These are also light and easy to carry.

Note: There's a little controversy about the above method, because clothes these days are made with so many artificial fibers. Some people are concerned using lint from these non-natural fiber clothing could create bad fumes when burning these fire starters. Use your own judgement.

Method #3: You need:
Newspaper
Toilet paper roll cardboard

Directions:
Stuff the cardboard roll with wadded newspaper - not too tightly so that air can get in. Place within the tinder and light. These take up a bit more room so they are better for at-home use.

Method #4: You need:
-empty clean tuna can
-cardboard
-wax

Directions:
Wash and dry the can. Cut long pieces of cardboard about 1 1/2 inches wide (wide enough to fit in the can with a little above). Roll these pieces into tight spirals. Pour the empty cans about half full of melted wax. Carefully add the cardboard spirals and let the wax set. There should be enough cardboard showing above the can to light. This is a method I learned in girl sprouts! These are a little more bulky but have always been reliable for me.

Other Methods:
-dried pine needles
-crumpled up newspaper
-dryer lint by itself
-pine cones lightly dipped in wax
-craft sticks/popsicle sticks
-unraveled twine

Store a couple different fire-starters in your bug-out-bag or camping supplies. Better to not put "all your eggs in one basket". Remember to store your supplies where moisture can't get to them. These should last quite a while, and are usually very reliable.

NOTE: When melting wax, only use a double boiler set up. Melted wax can easily ignite.
Have a fire extinguisher handy in case of emergency.

Raising Chickens Inside Your Home

We want fresh eggs but where we live, chickens are illegal. We could have two ducks and one pig, but chickens? Not allowed. Totally doesn't make sense. Go figure!

Anyway, we started thinking. We have heard about people raising quail in their homes, but haven't eaten quail, and we know that quail eggs are very small. So... is it possible to raise a chicken or two inside a home for egg purposes? Would they grow to be neurotic? Prefer indoors as opposed to outdoors? Be quiet enough? Docile enough? Tolerate our cold family room?

So a little research was needed.

This past Monday, I called Murray McMurray Hatchery and spoke with Pat. I asked her the question: have you ever heard of anyone raising a chicken or two inside a house for eggs? Her answer surprised me (I'll paraphrase her answer):

Yes, she has a co-worker in that office who took two chicks home. She set them up on a spare bedroom with a bunny. All cozy in their cages. Just started producing eggs (although for some reason she hasn't eaten any of them yet!). The smell isn't too bad, and when it's sunny, she lets them out for a little air. Changes "bedding" daily.

Murray McMurray Hatchery's contact info is: P.O. Box 458, 191 Closz Drive, Webster City, Iowa 50595, phone: 515.832.3280 or toll free: 800.456.3280 or fax: 515.832.2213.

So... I guess it IS possible.

I wonder...
We could build a couple of nesting boxes in our family room, right next to the sliding glass doors that lead to the fenced-in backyard. Maybe a little ramp to get down to the ground for when we let them into the backyard. Safe from our puppy, but where he and the older chihuahua will get used to them and won't chase them when we get our 2-5 acre homestead. Close to the backyard for cleaning-cage time (daily would be necessary).

I wonder...
If we let them out once a day, when it's nice out, during the day when most neighbors are at work, would the chickens be quiet enough so people won't know they are there?

I wonder...
What kind of chicken could we find locally? Here's a link to breeds: http://www.ithaca.edu/staff/jhenderson/chooks/chooks.html - would need some chickens that are adaptable to confinement, cold hardy, small/miniature size full-grown, quiet, etc.

I like the Ameraucana (also known as the Easter Egg Chicken - lays blue and green eggs), Araucana (lays blue eggs), Cochin (yellowy-brown eggs), New Hampshire Red (light to medium dark brown eggs), Plymouth Rock (light to medium brown eggs), Silkie (light tint), or Sussex (creamy to light brown eggs).

Still...
Would we be able to keep the smell down so we could sell the house? Would they be warm enough in the family room which is quite cold right now? (We keep our house's temp between 55-60 degrees F for financial reasons.)

Still...
We would have to find a local supplier because when you buy chicks from a hatchery, they usually ship in groups upwards of 20 for the babies to have each other for body heat.

Still...
We would have to get a different kind of chicken for when we have the homestead because there they will be free-range foragers.

These are questions we're still pondering. Does anyone have any experience raising chickens in your home? Details, please!

= = = =
As we haven't used any of the following, we can't endorse any, but here are a few links to chick suppliers:

http://www.mcmurrayhatchery.com/

http://www.randallburkey.com/

http://www.lionsgrip.com/producers.html

http://www.mypetchicken.com/default.aspx

great link:
http://www.motherearthnews.com/directories/Hatchery-Directory.aspx?directory=116150


One more thing... I had been thinking about this for a while. Could chickens be raised exclusively in our home? What if we get notice that the bird flu has mutated so it could be passed human to human, and that strain has entered the USA?

So.... if the bird flu does hit, wouldn't it be nice to know that with a little warning, you could set up an area inside your home (garage, basement, family room, or guest bedroom) for your feathered friends, and know you'll be safe from exposure to the bird flu, at least from your own flock? Plus, if you're confined, you'd have fresh eggs daily, which is a great source of protein.

Now... for a sad sidenote:

We have given this a lot of thought over the last week, and even more discussion. With our financial situation the way it is, we're going to put off getting any additional critters to take care of. If we had to suddenly rent an apartment, we'd have a time trying to find one to take our little chihuahua and our giant puppy! But meanwhile, this is good info for later, or to share with you!

Building Codes

All the recent posts about alternative housing construction has brought to mind a question: if we want to just start digging a hole and create an "underground" home that no one knows about, would we get in trouble with our county's building code?

Researching our local code says yes, we have to get approval from our city to have anything that is bigger than 10 feet squared and has a roof. Do you know what yours says?

So basically, unless we do it way out in the boonies and camoflauge our construction from satellite and on-ground prying eyes, we have to have permission from the government to do anything on the property that we paid for. That we own.

Doesn't seem very fair, does it?

The purpose of this post is to remind you that before you start building that log cabin, sand-bag dome or digging that underground cave, you need to find out (as quietly and subtlely as you can) what your local government office has to say about it. Chances are, it's a lot.

Another few thoughts:
-do you need "permission" to place a "sheds" (even pre-builts) on your property
-do you need "permission" to place a "barn" on your property
-do you need "permission" to dig a hole for a buried trash can
-do you need "permission" to make an outhouse

Basics of Underground Housing and Other Options

From: http://www.smart-homeowner.com/ME2/Audiences/dirmod.asp?sid=&nm=&type=Publishing&mod=Publications%3A%3AArticle&mid=8F3A7027421841978F18BE895F87F791&tier=4&id=65CBA1EE3F6142C2ABB71B19F8A0D430&AudID=Better%20Home%2C%20Better%20Planet with minor editing:

Underground
Our cave-dwelling ancestors probably developed the basics of the method when they ran out of available caves but still thought of south-facing hillsides as attractive places to live. Today, underground building is far from burrowing deep beneath the lawn. Most underground homes are either concrete (usually), pressure-treated wood (sometimes) or naturally rot-resistant wood (seldom) structures, built in an area excavated from a hillside (usually) or flat land (sometimes). The one-story structure is usually roofed over with a flat, heavily reinforced, waterproofed deck and oriented with windows and doors facing south or in an arch facing southeast, south and southwest. All walls and roof decks are insulated from the exterior with thick, waterproof foam sheets. The excavated material is carefully pushed and tamped back into place up against the walls. On the roof, the material is replaced gingerly and often without tamping, creating an R-value of 50 or more, depending on the soil type and depth. It would be difficult to build a quieter home. Utilities are installed pretty much like an ordinary balloon-framed or concrete structure. The costs of underground construction generally run about 10 to 20 percent higher than standard balloon-framed homes, particularly when using a contractor who has never built underground before. In areas where soil is thin, imported fill can also drive the costs up. Environmentally, underground homes tend to blend in with their surroundings after a few years, although trees must be kept from growing in the way of the southerly exposure and roots from some species of trees overhead can pose problems decades down the road. Once overgrown with native vegetation, the entire structure blends in nicely with its surroundings.

One of the first "survival"-type books we bought is this great book by Mike Oehler entitled "The $50 and Up Underground House Book". It has great info about the very most basics of digging out a shelter that is very liveable. You won't have a lot of space, but if built correctly, could have a LOT of privacy as it could be very well hidden.

Question: Will an underground or earthbermed home be defensible? Yes, if you have cameras installed or if you've designed it well. Also, when drawing up a floor plan for your underground or earth-bermed home, remember in the northern hemisphere, the open part must be south-facing to take advantage of the natural heat in the winter and the cooling in the summer. Will your property support that? If your entrance is on the north, design your driveway to come around to the back or "side" entrance.

Perhaps you'd consider having your underground house with a "fake-out" on top? Just a teeny little cabin with 4-directions for your viewing pleasure (read: defense).

More info about underground housing:

When considering an underground house floor plan, look for the following applications:

1. The house floor plan should blur the distinction between indoors and outdoors. The purpose is to exist in close harmony with nature.
2. The windows should be honeycomb style to harness solar energy.
3. Since the windows for this type of floor plan don't open, an intake vent system with filters should be installed to draw fresh air from outside. The filters help keep out unwanted pests.
4. Air should be fanned from a solar collector through the home duct work into a rock store beneath the main living space. The store system maintains an efficient heat-exchange which works with the insulating soil to maintain a comfortable temperature year round. A good system would require no additional heating or cooling.

The dome shaped rooms give rise to maximum floor space and minimum wall area. Floor areas do not to conform to traditional housing expectations and and the living spaces are defined with curved walls with no sharp corners. Natural sunlight can be channeled into the house via the use of a skylight lined with natural reflective materials

Here's the last part of our series of alternative housing construction methods:

Other Options
These methods of home construction only begin to hint at all the alternatives out there. If more exotic methods and materials are considered, homes can be built using everything from lightweight, aerated concrete blocks to recycled tires and cordwood. Aluminum cans, reinforced fiberglass, recycled steel and even sawdust have been used as basic building materials. The only ingredient common to all is the devotee who, for one reason or another, sees each method full of obvious advantages and few disadvantages.

But before you decide to create the American dream using methods and materials from someone else's vision of how life should be, consider all potential drawbacks. For instance, most real estate agents agree that selling offbeat homes is a significant challenge. Homebuyers generally shy away from methods and materials they don't understand. So resale of your alternative home may not be as quick, easy or lucrative as you, or your heirs, would like it to be. Additionally, home insurers may look askance at methods and materials with which they've had no experience. Although foam block, timber frames and log homes have gained acceptance, straw-bale and underground homes may be harder to insure at reasonable rates. Likewise, local building codes and inspectors may delay onsite approvals and permit issuance simply because the methods and materials are so new and require extra time to understand. And finding contractors willing to try your methods, which may appear woefully untried to them, is always difficult and usually expensive. So before you try an alternative home-construction method or material, it's best to talk with several people who have used the method and lived in the resulting structure for more than five or six years. It's only after 10 years or more that any home's shortcomings - be it alternative or standard construction - become obvious. Although home construction and ownership always involve compromises of one sort or another, it is best to understand in advance what concessions you will have to make.

Note: This is a blog for people who are looking to provide a long-term place to live and for disaster preparedness. Take all of the information you can gather, from here and elsewhere, and be sure to weigh all pros and cons for your housing decision. Do you intend to live forever in this house you plan to build? Then you probably don't need to worry about resale value. Live in mostly desert terrain? Then the organics method may work for you. Want to live underground? There are many types - earth bermed, hidden entrances and so many other ways to choose from. This is a big decision so be sure to make it wisely. It may be a matter of life or death.

Don't worry - we're not hanging ya out to dry. When we get more info or people want to share their experience of using alternative methods to build their dream survival home, we'll post them. Stay tuned! :)

Basics of Compound Organics Construction

More... with editing... from http://www.smart-homeowner.com/ME2/Audiences/dirmod.asp?sid=&nm=&type=Publishing&mod=Publications%3A%3AArticle&mid=8F3A7027421841978F18BE895F87F791&tier=4&id=65CBA1EE3F6142C2ABB71B19F8A0D430&AudID=Better%20Home%2C%20Better%20Planet ...

Compound Organics
Clay combined with organic fillers has been a basic building method for thousands of years. From the American Southwest to the northern German forests, the binding ingredient of clay along with insulating elements like straw or wood chips has been used to keep homes warm, or cool, and contribute to the structural integrity of the building. When formed into small, stackable, clay-straw bricks, the method is called adobe. When used in a wall formed by laths, the method is wattle-and-daub. And there are dozens of variations on each of these themes, from rammed-earth methods to giant pottery-like approaches. The use of compound organic homebuilding techniques is rooted in a desire to reduce dependence on manufactured wood products and thereby help preserve forests. In some areas, the appropriate clay and fillers are significantly less expensive than manufactured wood products, adding a financial incentive. And since building with these materials releases you from the carpenter's dictates of everything being plumb, flush and level, more unskilled labor can be used, including beginner, do-it-yourself adherents. Some methods allow for molded artistic touches that are impossible to achieve by just about any other building method. As with straw-bale construction, simply building a wall using these methods is only the beginning of the project. If indoor plumbing, electricity, windows and doors are desired, appropriate allowances (pipe holes, raceways, wooden frames, etc.) must be made as construction progresses. Also, gauging the exact R-value of these methods is inexact at best, since standardization isn't required. It's important to keep the walls of these buildings dry. A stuccoed exterior and plastered interior again contribute to reducing the dampness. Also, extended roof overhangs keep rainwater under control. Roofs in general must be built of materials other than compound organics, ranging from traditional thatched roofs to trusses decked and covered with modern materials. All building is best done in the warm, dry season, making areas with cool, rainy climates poor candidates for most compound-organic approaches.

Next: Underground

Basics of Log Home Building and Timber Frame

Our third type of alternative housing construction... minor editing... from http://www.smart-homeowner.com/ME2/Audiences/dirmod.asp?sid=&nm=&type=Publishing&mod=Publications%3A%3AArticle&mid=8F3A7027421841978F18BE895F87F791&tier=4&id=65CBA1EE3F6142C2ABB71B19F8A0D430&AudID=Better%20Home%2C%20Better%20Planet

Log Homes
Thermal mass is a term you hear a lot when considering a prefabricated log home. It has been a touchy point when log home advocates debate proponents of other types of home construction. To understand it, a working knowledge of how log homes are built is essential. Log homes today are far more than rough logs stacked one on another, as was the case in Abraham Lincoln's day. Still, log home walls are essentially solid wood. The same timber that faces the outdoors also has a side that faces indoors. But that's where the similarities end. The 'logs' of today are more akin to carefully cut timbers, fitted together for maximum airtight integrity. Indeed, the only thing that looks like a debarked log is the exterior-facing, finished surface. The ends of these 'logs' are notched in the traditional manner, interlocking at the corners of the structure. But along the mating surfaces, most logs in kits fit together like stacked tongue-and-groove lumber, usually with a weatherproof sealant at the mating surfaces for good measure. When finished, the only insulation between you and the elements is that wall of logs. Some have argued that an 8-inch wall of wood does not have as high an R-value as a standard 8-inch wall filled with insulation. That's true. But log home advocates quickly point out that the thermal mass of the logs prevents heat loss in the manner in which heat is rapidly lost through an ordinary wall. Many experts agree and have concluded that heating or cooling a log home is about on par with most other modern building methods. Beyond that, log homes lend themselves strongly to an open approach to interior design. Although newly cut softwood logs are a creamy whitish or light brown color when first installed, they do darken considerably over time, becoming various shades of medium to dark brown, depending on the species of wood used. With a fairly open interior and a generous amount of natural lighting, the gloominess these colors impart is easily dispelled. For the environmentally conscious log-home builder, the National Association of Home Builders says log homes are no threat to the nation's forests. The association says that 37 percent more timber is grown than harvested each year and that all new-home construction accounts for barely 50 percent of that harvested timber anyway. (The rest goes to pulp and paper manufacture.) Moreover, log homes account for only 3 to 5 percent of all new homes built, the association says. So it appears a log home has little impact on ecological concerns in the nation's forests.

Timber Frame
The big sticking point with the post-and-beam revival in the 1970s and 80s was the demand for extra materials and high labor costs. In essence, those early timber-framed homes were built twice: once for the labor-intensive, post-and-beam skeleton and then again using variations on standard stud framing for the surrounding shell of energy-efficient walls, roof, windows and doors. Now, both the labor and materials problems have been largely solved. Precutting all timbers at a central mill has reduced labor. This controlled environment offers much-improved results over earlier on-site efforts. When milled offsite, the timbers can be monitored for structural viability and moisture content, both crucial factors in the long-term stability and appearance of the house. They can also be cut more precisely, so the integrity of the joints is never left up to how somebody feels on a given workday. Both materials and labor have been saved with the advent of special structural panels for the exterior walls and roof of a timber-framed home. These ingenious panels are like a big ice cream sandwich with the exterior wall on one side, the interior wall on the other and, in between, a hefty layer of solid foam insulation. The R-value for such a panel (often called a stressed-skin panel) is well above the R-20 generally recommended for walls. The panels are locked together by using one of several clever building devices and, if done correctly, an airtight structure is assured. Little tunnels for plumbing and electrical necessities are cut in the foam before the panels go together. It's all a remarkable step forward from 'the good old days' of timber framing. The interior surfaces of these wall panels are basically the same as surfaces in homes built by more conventional means. Thus, in interior finish work, you can design anything from the rustic, open approach to a more refined 'paint-and-paper' interior. Of course, kit construction does put some limitations on the design of your timber-framed home, which will cost 10 to 20 percent more than a comparable stick-built home. Some manufacturers will precut a custom-designed home, but that drives up the costs again.

Next up.. Compound Organics

Basics of Straw Bale Construction

Here's the next alternative housing construction method:

From: http://www.smart-homeowner.com/ME2/Audiences/dirmod.asp?sid=&nm=&type=Publishing&mod=Publications%3A%3AArticle&mid=8F3A7027421841978F18BE895F87F791&tier=4&id=65CBA1EE3F6142C2ABB71B19F8A0D430&AudID=Better%20Home%2C%20Better%20Planet with minor editing:

Straw Bales
Straw-bale construction burst on the home building scene in the 1990s, although variations on this type of construction have been around for nearly 100 years. Similar in theory to foam-block construction, straw-bale construction offers a less expensive building medium with a very high resultant R-value in the walls - up to R-50 depending on the size and quality of bales used. The method is also far cheaper than foam-block or balloon-framed construction, usually coming in about 10 to 20 percent under stick-built houses. To build with straw bales, a foundation must be poured with vertical, reinforcing steel bars extending eight to 10 feet above grade. The straw bales are then spiked down on these rebars in a staggered, brick-like manner. Where wide gaps are necessary, wooden planking is used to reinforce the bales above. After a truss-style roof is applied, the 18- to 24-inch-thick bales are plastered on the inside and stuccoed on the outside. Straw-bale construction has been most popular in areas where the climate is relatively dry. That's because it's imperative to keep the bales absolutely dry from the moment they come out of the field until the final coats of plaster and stucco are applied. Otherwise, mold, mildew and rot can set in. It's also essential to use only straw, not hay. Straw is left over when wheat, oats or other grain-bearing stalks are stripped of their seeds. Any seeds left in a bale have the potential to germinate and expand from the inside, cracking wall coatings on the outside. Hay is simply dried grass, which is chock full of seeds that are generally not removed, since unlike other grains, they are not used for food. In addition to the dampness and seed issues, many straw-bale homeowners report problems with rodents. When done properly, mice will not be able to penetrate stucco or plaster. But as the years go by, a crack here or a chip there may invite a furry critter inside the walls. Once in, their tunneling and home-building abilities are truly remarkable, though not desirable.

Next Alternative Housing Construction Method: Log Home

Basics of Insulated Concrete Form Construction

I found this information at http://www.smart-homeowner.com/ME2/Audiences/dirmod.asp?sid=&nm=&type=Publishing&mod=Publications%3A%3AArticle&mid=8F3A7027421841978F18BE895F87F791&tier=4&id=65CBA1EE3F6142C2ABB71B19F8A0D430&AudID=Better%20Home%2C%20Better%20Planet while researching alternative construction for housing... it kinda breaks down different types with basic info. I edited it a little. This first deals with Insulated Concrete Forms (foam blocks):

Insulated Concrete Forms
This increasingly popular construction method relies on concrete and recycled plastic for its structural integrity and excellent insulation values. It is most popular in areas where lumber prices are high, due to the absence of big local forests - areas such as the desert Southwest, the Great Plains and southern California. But it's readily adaptable to just about any terrain, climate and location. Moreover, it offers an alternative building method with few practical disadvantages. Each manufacturer of concrete-filled foam blocks has its own method of making the basic building material. But to one extent or another, they all make their blocks out of a high percentage of recycled polystyrene, which is an excellent insulator against heat, cold, sound and critters. The blocks are reminiscent of old-fashioned cinder blocks because they are hollowed out in the center. But because the basic building material is so light, the blocks can be, and often are, much bigger than cinder blocks, sometimes several feet in length and width. They are either glued together or manufactured so that they interlock. Once together, the blocks create a honeycomb of tunnel-like air spaces inside a wall cavity. The spaces usually run both vertically and horizontally. Steel reinforcing bars are then located in the vertical floor-to-ceiling cavity. Then a special mixture of concrete is pumped into wall cavities, where a vibrating tool drives out all the excess air, making certain the cavities are filled to capacity. When the concrete hardens, the wall is essentially complete, with concrete and iron on the inside and polystyrene on the outside, offering an insulating R-value of about 32. The R-value of the standard 2x6-stud wall filled with fiberglass batting is 19. The nearly waterproof polystyrene surface is easily cut with a special knife, saw or router for the plumbing and wiring raceways. Obviously, window and door openings would be created before pouring the concrete. The rough openings usually include a wooden nailing surface for the finished doors and windows themselves. Interior walls are either plaster or standard drywall panels glued in place and finished as desired. Exterior walls are either stucco or siding glued in place. The biggest shortcoming in this construction method is cost. Even in areas of the country where plasterers and stucco masons are plentiful, a foam-block home will cost around 15 percent more to build than a comparable balloon-framed house. Where plasterers and stucco masons are scarce, the cost goes up even more. And if you opt for a siding like clapboards, cedar shingles and the like, the cost goes up even more because of the laborious preparations needed to give the rough exterior a reliable nailing surface. Of course, foam block advocates argue that energy savings over the years will compensate for the higher initial costs. But that's little comfort when you're writing those big monthly checks to cover the mortgage. Also, in rainy climates, the permeability of the foam blocks could allow water penetration or water buildup in the walls over time. Design considerations and more costly exterior siding options generally prevent the water problem from developing but again drive up costs.

Next: Straw Bale Construction

Basics of Earthbag Buildings

In my search for alternative housing construction methods, I came across this website: http://www.earthbagbuilding.com/ which presented a method that had never crossed my mind!

Basically, it's using sand bags (not necessarily filled with sand) to build a structure. Instead of using the old timey burlap bags, you use Polypropylene bags or tubes that are durable, won't rot and are super strong. They are either the rectangle that you're familiar with, or tubes that are long and thin, like snakes. Easy to mold into your pattern, plus, these bags are actually quite cheap (you'd need to calculate how many to get and buy in bulk - probably - with needing extra - probably).

You fill these bags with sand, gravel, rice hulls, or whatever else you have. Your local gravel and sand place might have "reject sand" which is sand that doesn't meet their standards. It's possible to get it for just a buck or two per ton (plus, of course, delivery fees). Especially good would be to dig your hole for your new home, and use that dirt to fill your bags. Then you stack the bags a certain way (the above noted website has pictures). Looks like domes are the best way to go.

You would still want to create interior walls, and add some kind of stucco or siding to the outside to weather-proof and bug-proof but this still looks like a really smart alternative.

Here are some links I found on the above site of people's stories:
-http://www.earthbagbuilding.com/projects/hermit.htm
-http://www.earthbagbuilding.com/projects/kiva.htm
-http://www.earthbagbuilding.com/articles/honeyhouse.htm
-http://www.earthbagbuilding.com/projects/earthdomehouse.htm
-http://www.earthbagbuilding.com/projects/angel.htm
-http://www.earthbagbuilding.com/projects/hut.htm

I can't wait to try this out! Okay, I'll have to wait... until we get our homestead, but still... amazing!

Does anyone have experience using this method?

Legos for Homes: Foam Blocks and Poured Concrete

Found the following exchange while searching for info on alternative housing construction:

Q: I am currently designing an earth-sheltered home, but have been unable to determine the best building material for my location and how this will affect my design. I have been leaning toward lightweight concrete lately as I am impressed with the creative flexibility of it. I live in an extreme climate (Northern Canada)temperatures range anywhere from -40 to 104F, the prairies are dry and windy. I will be covering all but the south side of the home with earth, as this is where my greenhouse will be going. I would like to build it right into the house rather than externally and am expecting high humidity inside there, I will be separating the greenhouse from the main house with glass. I was hoping you could recommend the best material for me to work with, or if you know of any reference materials dealing specifically with this climate.

A: (J.M.) I would suggest using foam blocks and poured concrete. This method is very easy to use. The foam blocks are shipped flat and put together with plastic spacers. The walls go up quickly and are tied together with string. Additional wood braces are added, and then the walls are filled with concrete. Make sure you fill the wall in layers to help prevent a blowout. (Filling the walls in layers of a couple feet or so at a time allows the concrete to setup and reduces the likelihood of a blowout.) I've seen this technique used a couple of time, always with great success. If it's available in your area, I would suggest you explore using this method.


Here's what I found on yet another website:

One of the best house construction methods, considering your particular concerns about disasters, is stay-in-place-form concrete walls. These houses are not only super energy efficient, but they are extremely strong. Even tornado or hurricane winds won't blow one down.

Other than deeper window openings, these homes look like any other. Your architect will actually have more styling flexibility due to the strength. Interior and exterior walls can be finished with drywall, paneling, siding, brick or stucco.

I would recommend one of the foam block building methods. These are large, often four-foot-long, hollow foam blocks. They are usually made of polystyrene insulating foam like a cooler. Once the blocks are stacked up to create the wall, concrete is pumped in the top to fill the hollow block cavities.

You can expect your utility bills to be about half those of a code stick-built house. This results from the high insulation level and the efficiency benefits of the high thermal mass of the concrete. The overall building cost is only about three to five percent more than a lumber stick-built house.

The first thing you notice when you enter one of these houses is how quiet it is. The heavy insulation and concrete mass inside the walls block outdoor noise. With the concrete core and tight sealing foam blocks, the homes are very airtight. This is an advantage for your terrorism concerns.

You have several choices of foam block designs. One type, called waffle, uses molded all-foam blocks with internal webs. This creates continuous cavities of various widths. If you would break away the foam insulation after the concrete sets, the concrete surface would resemble a waffle.

Another effective design is a flat wall. These blocks are made of flat sheets of foam insulation, usually about two inches thick. There are metal or plastic webs in between them to space them apart. When the concrete is poured in, it forms a core of constant thickness, often six to 12 inches.

The waffle-type blocks produce a higher overall insulation level because there is more foam. Also, less concrete volume is needed to fill the wall. Talk to builders to see which they prefer to use in your area. A third foam block design produces a post-and-beam concrete pattern inside the blocks.

There are also new foam floor/ceiling/roof insulating foam forms. Concrete is poured over them and in channels. They are very strong, efficient and quiet.


Here's a link for more information about foam blocks (also known as Insulating Concrete Forms or ICFs): http://www.consumerenergycenter.org/home/construction/forms.html - talks about R-values (insulation quality), earthquake reinforcements, insect resistance, and more.


There HAS to be a lot of suppliers out there for foam blocks to be used with poured concrete, but I'm having troubles finding them!

Checked out the website for Home Depot - nothing turned up for my search. Called their customer service department, and the twit I talked to didn't have a clue as to what I was talking about. Said to check in the store ... when I said it wasn't for me and was probably across the country ... she got kinda smart aleck. So... dead end.

Called Lowe's because couldn't find anything on their website either. At least this customer service rep was nicer and said he would try to find someone at my local store who knew more about it. They checked, called me back, and said their stores don't have anything like this.

Does anyone know suppliers for these ICFs? If so, please feel free to leave the info here as a comment. Thanks!

Alternative Housing: Plastic Bottles

Found this link while researching different ways to make alternative housing. He used plastic bottles, linked them, floated them, then built an island on top of them, where he actually grows food, lives, cooks his meals in a solar cooker, etc. Very interesting!

http://greenupgrader.com/1821/spiral-island-constructed-from-recycled-bottles/

Farm Animals: Bees

Not usually considered farm animals, bees are absolutely necessary to a farm, and they are dying. Called "Colony Collapse Disorder", scientists are puzzled why bees are disappearing at such an alarming rate. That means that we need to do everything we can to provide a home for bees and plants to help them regain their strength and build growing hives.

On our Dream Land, we'll have as many hives as possible, scattered throughout. While we don't have actual bee-keeping experience, we are very willing to learn.

In addition to providing a LOT of fruit and nut trees, berry brambles, vegetables, and flowers to give the bees food, we'll also provide safe living quarters for them. We'll tend them as lovingly as we will all of our other creatures.

In return, the bees will provide us with wax to make candles and honey for sweetener, in addition to, of course, pollinating our crops. Bees are essential to the continuation of the human race as most of our crops require pollination by insects.

Who's with us?

Defense of Home, Family and Property

I write most of the postings for this blog, and am not well versed in defense. That's Hubby's job... he's got several firearms and ammo, and is looking for more plus repair kits and molds to make ammo. Meanwhile, we also have knives, swords, several sizes and varieties of dart guns, boomerangs and slingshots.

We recently had a chance to try shooting a rifle at a local gun show. The VHTS (age 12) did excellently considering it was his first time. I hadn't shot a rifle since BB guns in my teens (eons ago!) and did very well. Er, Hubby needs practice.

We got several dart guns that day and are teaching ourselves how to use them. We also have the slingshots and associated equipment and are learning those.

It's not that guns and other firearms scare me. I just don't know anything about them. And when we get a chance, Hubby will teach us, or we'll take classes on the different kinds and how to use and take care of them. And, of course, practice regularly.

Plus, as you know, we now have a puppy. We bought him to our specifications: a very young puppy, boy, unneutered, of a defense breed/mix, to be strong and big. Later we will breed him with a similar girl dog, and train the puppies. For now, we've begun his training and he's doing very well for a baby. He's already becoming loyal and we feel sure that by the time he learns the basics, he will be fiercely loyal and trustworthy. After the basics, he will be taught to listen to all sounds, ignore common noises, growl and bark for all intruders until told to stop, attack when commanded, patrol the perimeter, and protect our family members, home and property, which will include our farm animals like chickens, et al. Here's a defense "mechanism" that will do well for us.

If you don't want to use firearms, find an alternative that you ARE comfortable with to defend your home, family and property.

Alternative Housing

I haven't forgotten that some people have requested additional information on creating non-traditional homes. I'm still researching - especially underground tire homes, underground shipping container homes, storage shed conversion, etc.

Anyone want to contribute about building codes? Can we dig/create an underground tire "root cellar" and not need building inspections?

Thnx...Vikki

Farm Animals: Miniature Cattle

We would love to have a small herd of cattle on our future property, but regular sized animals eat a lot, and need lots of water. The more the cattle eat, the more hay we need to grow, harvest and store. We want to be self-sufficient, so it makes sense to have something smaller.

After researching, we found out the following about miniature cattle:

• Most mini cows are under 41 inches tall.
• Miniature cattle offer a great opportunity for kids to take care of and train an animal.
• Beef type animals (Hereford, Dexter, and Lowline Angus) provide an opportunity to raise organic beef without a huge investment in equipment or feed.
• However... Dexters come the most highly recommended. They are rugged, hardy cattle. They are naturally small but not really a "miniature" so they don't have some of the same problems that overbred mini's have. They make great milk and meat, great moms, and have dog-like personalities. Dexter bulls are as easy to handle as ponies.
• I read somewhere that a mini cow provides as much milk as a regular-sized cow. And natural milk (organic, hormone/antibiotic-free, and unpasteurized) provides great nutrition.
• These are perfect for a small petting zoo. They are small enough for youngsters to pet and not be intimidated.

We're thinking about 5-10 Dexter cows and one bull? We'd get plenty of milk for cheese, yogurt and ice cream, fertilizer, weed/grass "mower" and "brush-clearer", and beef, plus possible extra "babies" to sell.

Storing, Grinding, and Using Wheat Berries

To almost anyone's food-storage program, it's vitally important to store wheat berries. Flour goes rancid quickly, so you'll need the berries to grind into flour as you need it.

What is a wheat berry?
A wheat berry is the fruit of the grass we know as wheat. The berry is the entire wheat kernel, without the hull, which contains the bran, germ, and endosperm. Wheat berry or wheatberry, as it is also known, have a tan to reddish brown color and are available as either a hard or soft processed grain.

Basics:
Wheat (berries) stores longer than flour. Once ground the flour will start the clock on becoming rancid, and losing vitamins to oxidation. Whereas, wheat berries have been found to last, when properly stored, for years and years and years, even decades. Some have even been found in ancient Egyptian tombs!

Equipment:
You could just use a mortar and pestle to grind the wheat berries into flour, but that's gonna get tedious and old real fast. Get a grinder (mill). We have a hand grinder because I've been trying to get equipment that doesn't need electricity, but there are many electric grinders available. Trust me, you'll need something, even a food processor, to grind the wheat berries. I've heard of some people using even a coffee grinder, or one of those twist-top small grinders.

Talk to your friends and find out what they use and what they recommend. There are so many grinders and processors that it's going to be a big choice. One you'll have to live with. Many of these are expensive, so be sure to check craigslist or freecycle groups or garage sales and so forth.

Type of Wheat Berries:
Wheat is classified according to hardness, color, and best use. In the United States, the five most important classes of of wheat are: (1) hard red winter, for bread; (2) hard red spring, for bread and rolls; (3) soft red winter, for cake and pastries (it has a finer texture); (4) white, for bread, breakfast foods, and pastries; and (5) durum (to make pasta) products.

How to Store Wheat Berries:

• If you buy them in bulk, keep in original sealed containers if they come from a reputable supplier.
• Or you could store in paper bags in new metal garbage cans with tight-sealing lids.
• Must be kept in a cool dry area, in a container where rodents and other critters and bugs can't get to.

Uses for Wheat Berries:

• You can plant wheat berries to grow more wheat. You can't plant flour to grow more flour or wheat.
• Besides grinding into flour, you can cook the cracked wheat (bulgur), make frumenty, and other cracked or whole-wheat dishes.
• Cook wheat berries like rice and serve with a little gravy on it, or add it to casseroles.
• Add wheat berries to chili to give it more substance, more body.
• Cook wheat berries, re-dry them in the oven, and then crack them for cracked-wheat cereal (also known as bulgur) or top a salad.
• Grind the wheat berries into flour for bread, pizza, pasta... really anything that calls for flour.

Hope this helps you figure out what to do with your huge stores of wheat berries! If you have a favorite way to grind the berries into flour, please feel free to leave the info as a comment to this posting. Thanks.

Recipe: Homemade Cat Food & Treats

We posted recipes to feed dogs last week. Researched the same for cats, and even though we don't have any cats (I'm allergic), we came up with the following info.

Cats like chicken, liver, fish, turkey, lamb, and yeast. They prefer fresh to old "aged" flavors. Cats are usually fussy so you need to mix up what you give them. If you feed your cat his favorite food, at some point he will refuse to try anything else. This could cause problems down the road.

Cats should not have any starchy vegetables, like corn or peas, and may even enjoy fruit! Cats should eat 50% carbohydrates and 50% meat. They should be fed three times a day. This doesn't mean big meals though!

Modern day cats aren't used to catching their own prey, so avoid giving them bones. However, if you have a mouser, the cat will be fine with catching and eating their own meals. Be sure to watch their health and supplement as necessary.

Turkey-Egg Dinner:
1 cup dried turkey dices, rehydrated, cooked
2 boiled/scrambled eggs
1 tablespoon pureed carrots
1 tablespoon cottage cheese
1 tablespoon sunflower oil

Mix well. Feed at room temperature. Refrigerate covered for no more than 3 days.

Chicken-Seafood Dinner:
1 cup cooked chicken
1 cup cooked sweet potato or spinach or green beans
1/2 cup cooked clams with juice (check for mercury)
3 tablespoons oil
3 tablespoons fish oil
5 rounded tablespoons Solgar Bone Meal Powder with Vitamin B-12

Combine well. Separate into 1/2 cup portions. Feed one portion a day. Freeze rest in small baggies (thaw baggies in hot water before serving).


Fish Treats:
7 ounces sardines in oil
1/4 cup dry powdered milk
1/2 cup wheat germ

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Mix/mash all ingredients into a dough. Roll into small balls. Place on oiled cookie/baking sheet. Flatten with a fork. Bake until begin to brown. Store in fridge in airtight container. Give only one or two treats a day.


Sources of Protein (listed here as raw - but MUST be cooked to serve):
6 ounces ground turkey, or minced turkey (dark meat)
1/2 pound beef, chicken or turkey heart, ground or minced
1/2 pound boneless chicken breast or thigh, minced
1/2 pound lean beef, minced

Three Times Per Week, add:
1 boiled or scrambled egg
4 ounces cooked organic liver
4 ounces water-packed mercury-free tuna
6 ounces sardines
5 ounces can salmon with bones
1/2 cup cooked white rice

Cats should avoid onions!

Also avoid:

-canned fish if cat has urinary tract problems

- baby food

-alcoholic beverages

-bones

-canned tuna (possibly too much mercury/lacking certain vitamins)

-milk

-caffeine

-dog food

-grapes, raisins

-fat trimmings, table scraps

-macadamia nuts

-mushrooms

-potato/rhubarb

-raw eggs / raw fish

-too much liver

For more info, check out:

http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=1+1935&aid=1029

We don't have experience with other pets - anyone have treats for birds, ferrets, rabbits, etc? Please feel free to leave your recipe as a comment to this post. Thanks!

Candle-Making

I haven't made candles since I was a little girl. My mother would gather the supplies and then us three girls (I'm the middle kid) would help in the kitchen. She had a special pot for melting, another for dipping and pouring. We would use cans from food like tuna or soup, suspending the wick with a pencil. We color them with those bars you scrape, and sometime scent them peppermint or cinnamon. This was usually a winter project when we'd be snowed in. I felt so proud to have created something so wonderful. Wonder why I never did it after I grew up?

But now, I want to know how to again. It's important that I be able to make candles. Last Fall we went shopping at Hobby Lobby, and luckily they were having a sale. We came away with quite an assortment of supplies.

First, we got a kit (Candle Creations - a Candle Making Machine). I know I know ... that's cheating. Yes, a little. But I want to re-learn the basics before I experiment.

So, in addition to the kit, we got block wax, bees wax, soy wax, color, scents, wicks, molds and more. We haven't had a chance to experiment yet but hopefully in the next month or so.

Actually, we plan on this being a family project, to add to our list of "specialties". At our next (and final) home, we plan on having several bee hives for honey and wax. We'll have a lot of bayberry bushes for bayberry wax. We hope to figure out how to make wax from soy. And so, when the need arises, we'll be able to make candles at any time.

I loved making candles. Hope I can remember how.

Recipe: Homemade Dog Food & Treats

Every time we drive near Petco, VHTS asks to go in to get treats for our Chihuahua. Got us thinking: If the shumer hits the fan, and we run out of dog food and treats, what will we do? Found these recipes, and tried them. Princess-Picky ate them!

Most dogs choose their favorite treats by smell, and they like gamey flavors best, as well as liver, fat, garlic, horsemeat, lamb, beef, cheese and fish. Do NOT add salt. Dogs need to eat only once a day. Properly trained and allowed, dogs will self-regulate. For dogs use 75% carbohydrate foods (grains and vegetables) to 25% meat.

Doggy-Burger-Yum:
1 cup dried ground beef, rehydrated, cooked
1/2 cup cooked oatmeal
1 jar baby food - green beans
1 jar baby food - carrots

Mix together. Add cottage cheese and scrambled or boiled egg if you have it. Serve at room temperature. Store unused portion (covered) in refrigerator; use within 3 days.

Doggy-Chicken-Yum:
1 cup dried chicken or turkey dices, rehydrated, cooked
1/2 cup cooked brown rice
2 jars baby food - mixed vegetables
1/4 cup unsalted chicken broth

Mix together. Serve at room temperature. Store unused portion (covered) in refrigerator; use within 3 days.

Doggy-Peanut-Butter-Treats:
2 1/2 cups flour
1 jar baby food carrots or sweet potato
1 cup peanut butter
1 cup milk

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Combine ingredients well. Add a little more or less flour (or more/less milk) to make a stiff dough. Roll out on a floured surface to a quarter-inch thick. Cut out using cookie cutters. Place on oiled cookie/baking sheet. Bake for about 15 minutes.

Doggy-Green-Treats:
1 jar baby food - peas
2 jars baby food - meat
1/3 cup cooked oats
1/4 cup powdered milk
1/4 tsp garlic powder

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Combine ingredients well. Press into little treat-sized patties and place on oiled cookie/baking sheet. Bake for about 15 minutes.

Onions and chocolate are TOXIC to dogs. Avoid!

Unless your dog is used to eating animals and bones, don't give dogs any bones. They tend to splinter internally or lodged in the throat.

We'll work on cat treats but since we don't have a cat, they won't be tested. We're don't have experience with other pets - anyone have treats for birds, ferrets, rabbits, etc? Please feel free to leave your recipe as a comment to this post. Thanks!